Table for Tara is a column by Tara Gilts, sharing her dining experiences and takeaways from Athens County eateries.
ATHENS, Ohio — Although I’ve lived in Athens for most of the last 21 years, I was surprised to learn that The Pub —which I knew in my 20s as the bar with the aquariums (more on that in a moment) — is also a dependably enjoyable eatery. An enduring fixture on Court Street in Athens, The Pub has served libations and pub fare for half a century. It also has a dual identity: endearing daytime dining spot frequented by locals, and vibrant late-night bar beloved by Ohio University students.
Owner Tom VanDyke was not surprised that as a student I didn’t know The Pub had a regular lunch and dinner service. VanDyke began working in the food and beverage industry as a student himself in 1988, cleaning bars on Sunday mornings. He would later become general manager of The Pub and purchased the establishment in 2010 from original owners Steve and Theresa Sines.
The Aquarium, the namesake of a hefty 22-ounce glass filled with the beer of your choice, is one of the few things that has changed at The Pub in the last fifty years. The original Aquarium held 32 ounces, but the vessel was challenging to source, and naughty bar patrons would walk out with the glassware. The iconic Aquarium may have downsized, but its spirit remains unchanged. You can still buy the original 32-ounce glass, with The Pub logo, on-site for your personal enjoyment at home ($20).
Beer Cheese soup, available only on Wednesdays, has been on the menu since 1974. The recipe remains unchanged, and VanDyke shared that his team is committed to continuity at The Pub: “We work really hard to stay the same.”
I have never met a liquid cheese I didn’t like, and when combined with beer, chunks of broccoli, cauliflower, and celery, it becomes a hearty, flavorful soup that pairs well with the Pub Club. The Pub Club is the Aquarium of sandwiches: grilled stacks of turkey breast, ham, Colby and Swiss cheese served on a toasted sun-dried tomato pesto swirl bread. The ½ Pub Club ($5.50) and bowl of soup ($4.95) is an Uptown bargain, and is available for carry-out.
Burgers are popular at The Pub, and the Steak Burger is sourced from RL Valley Ranch in Guysville. All 18 burger and sandwich variations are reasonably priced, and no single item on the menu tops $10.
The Sloppy Ben, two quarter-pound burgers topped with cheese, bacon, mushroom sauce, and a pair of onion rings, also has stayed on the menu for 50 years. I asked VanDyke who Ben was, assuming he might have been a past patron or Pub employee. VanDyke dug out an old menu to solve the mystery: the Sloppy Ben was listed right after the Sloppy Joe (one of few retired menu items) and Ben is “Joe’s eccentric cousin.”
The Pub has embraced simplicity and familiarity. It’s a comfortable place to dine alone on a quick lunch break, gather with family to watch a game, or tend to an Aquarium-induced hangover with fried offerings and a can of Dr. Pepper. There are also elements that remind you that this is a hopping spot for college students in the wee hours of the morning: roomy well-loved booths, dim interior lighting, and an (intentionally) absent lock on the ladies room.
The Pub’s commitment to tradition and sticking with what works is maintained by General Manager Garret Mathson, who like VanDyke began at an entry-level position and stuck around for 17 years. Service at The Pub was consistently fast during my dining outings, and many of the employees — from daytime bartenders to the kitchen manager — have years of experience at The Pub under their belts.
Located at 39 North Court Street, The Pub is open daily, serving up nostalgia on a plate (or in an Aquarium) until 2 a.m.
5/5 Stars.
This article was updated on April 16, 2024, to correct the source of beef used in The Pub’s burgers.
