ATHENS, Ohio — Little Fish Brewing Company is making a big splash in the small pond of Appalachian Ohio. Nestled on the outskirts of Athens, this gem offers vibrant, elevated cuisine and Ohio-made beers in a warm, family-friendly setting that overlooks a tranquil, reclaimed wetland.
I encountered so many simple pleasures before even selecting a table: picking up speed as I coasted down a decent on the bike path spur to Armitage Road; a chorus of peepers and cicadas; a young deer observing us from the railroad tracks, welcoming us to this sweet spot; walking between rows of hops and string lights to enter the beer garden.
The dining experience was even more pleasurable. The menu includes two primary sections: Casual Food, with Bar Snacks, Small Plates and Shareables, Burgers, Pizzas, and Desserts, and the Chef’s Menu, described by Executive Chef and General Manager Jennifer Sartwell as “an expression of our creativity, the bounty of the region, and is the food we are most excited about.”
near the railroad tracks.
I shared the Summer Risotto with young dining companions, and I concur with one observation: it tastes like summer in your mouth. The dish, a celebration of the season, is sweet, creamy, bursting with flavor, and almost too lovely to eat. Featuring sweet corn, crispy heirloom zucchini, caramelized alliums, tomato jam, edible flowers, a poached hen egg, and aged parmesan, the Summer Risotto is available while the ingredients are.
The Appalachian Platter provides an opportunity to delight in the bounty of late summer in Athens. I sampled the Platter when some Appalachia-raised friends from L.A. returned home for a visit. They didn’t bat an eye at the $80 price tag, since they’re accustomed to paying twice that for half the quality. This shareable and artfully presented feast, designed for 2 to 3 people (or a larger group sampling other delights), is worth it. Their West Coast palates and mine were captivated by the symphony of flavors, featuring fried chicken, hot honey, smoked potatoes, creamed corn, whipped chevre, heirloom zucchini, and more, nearly all sourced from within 30 miles of the kitchen.
The beet burger cannot be beat. It boasts a vibrant, earthy, magenta patty topped with delicate greens, yogurt dill sauce, pickled red onions, and chèvre (for $2 extra). The burger is accompanied by a side salad, or you can indulge and upgrade to fries atop garlic aioli. The only thing better than a pile of sweet potato fries swimming in fancy mayonnaise are the Chimi fries: vibrant orange sweet potatoes topped with zesty green chimichurri sauce, nestled on a bed of creamy aioli ($8).
Detroit-style deep dish pizzas with edge-to-edge toppings are regularly on the menu and dependably spectacular. Options include the Classic, with house marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese; the Mushroom, with béchamel base, oyster and cremini mushrooms, capers, red chili, parsley, mozzarella cheese, and ricotta; and the Buffalo Chicken with chicken, buffalo sauce, pickled celery, blue cheese, marinara, and mozzarella.
Modifications are politely declined at Little Fish, as they should be. Chef Sartwell and her team know better than we do. My mother, who has never met an entrée she didn’t want to modify, managed to order a naked burger patty on a bed of greens. This is how I learned that they will gladly leave ingredients off, if requested. Her discerning palate was thrilled by the meal.
Co-owners Jimmy Stockwell and Sean White opened Little Fish Brewing Company in 2015, and two years later, in partnership with the visionary talent Chef Becky Clark, expanded to include a farm-to-table restaurant.
Chef Sartwell, who took over as executive chef in 2023 after years of working alongside Clark, brings a thoughtful, intentional approach to every aspect of her work. Sartwell honed her skills at culinary school in Portland, Maine, where she immersed herself in the local food scene, foraging, and the vibrant agricultural culture. She is also a butcher and owns a family farm in Albany. You’ll often find eggs from her chickens incorporated in dishes.
“We are so fortunate to have such an outstanding agriculture and livestock grower community here, as well as the ability to forage,” said Sartwell. “At Little Fish we are really driven to be a meaningful part of the food landscape and systems — we want to support farmers and use what they can grow for us, and we want to share that food with our community.”.
If you need more reasons to visit, consider this: ample parking, plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, a charming kids’ menu, and an extensive drink list with drafts, wines, cocktails, and non-alcoholic options. Plus, Little Fish offers on- and off-site catering, space for private parties, and even an on-site Airbnb. To plan your visit or event, contact them at kitchen@littlefishbrewing.com.
5/5 Stars.
