Table for Tara: Frida’s Modern Mexican makes for a fresh Athens outing

Table for Tara is a column by Tara Gilts, sharing her dining experiences and takeaways from Athens County eateries.

ATHENS, Ohio –– When Frida’s Modern Mexican began to take shape this summer, I heard grumblings from some locals, disappointed that another Mexican restaurant was joining a half-dozen others occupying that category in the county. With much else to grumble about, I am not going to waste any of my grumblings on a spot where I can enjoy bottomless chips and salsa on a patio with a margarita seven days a week.

Occupying the vacant space on Union Street that was most recently Ciró Italian Kitchen, Frida’s aesthetic is vibrant and playful. Roomy booths, comfortable chairs, and plenty of space at the bar create opportunities to gather with groups of all sizes. Bright murals dominate the restaurant walls, including a rendering of Frida Kahlo, presumably the restaurant’s namesake, and perhaps an inspiration for the establishment’s stated objective: “Honor the roots of authentic Mexican cuisine while infusing every dish with a creative, contemporary twist.”

Restaurant Manager Maria Jasso shared that her current favorite dish is the camarones al mojo de ajo: grilled shrimp cooked in a garlic sauce and served with rice, beans and tortillas. One of the most popular offerings is the birria tacos. Three corn quesadillas are stuffed with birria beef, a traditional Mexican stew slow-cooked in a broth of chiles, herbs and spices, and accompanied by cilantro, onion, hot salsa, lime and a side of birria consommé (for dipping or drizzling).

I sampled the cantina bowl and liked it so much I ate it twice — delightful lunch leftovers the next day. A flavorful and bountiful bowl of rice, black beans, grilled corn, pico de gallo, fresh avocado, cotija cheese, southwest sauce is topped with the protein of your choice. Or, for a few dollars more, you can top with grilled veggies and a protein, as I did. 

Dining al fresco is one of life’s great pleasures, particularly in Ohio, and Frida’s is one of just a handful of Athens Uptown restaurants that both accepts reservations (Sunday through Thursday) and has a seasonal patio. It can check three additional boxes: abundant vegetarian options, ample portion sizes for kids’ meals, and openness to meal modifications. 

One of my dining companions asked our attentive waiter: “Can you throw Tajín on a house margarita rim?” He happily replied, “I’m making it for you, so yes I will!” They were also happy to provide half-corn and half-flour tortillas when requested, and delighted one diner with a comically large bowl of sour cream when requested as a side. 

Finally, but perhaps most importantly to some: house margaritas are half-price daily from 2–6 p.m. The jalapeño margarita features fresh pepper slices swimming in jalapeño-infused tequila. 

For a fresh dining experience, or a patio drink with friends while taking in the Union Street happenings, visit Frida’s Modern Mexican, open daily for lunch and dinner, at 120 W. Union St., Athens.